Palm Springs, Ca to Burbank, Ca

Morag was able to get a good cup of coffee today! Not a small thing, when filtered mudbog is the norm. I recall a few weeks ago (in Tennesee or Arkansas I believe) Morag asked at a McDonalds drive-thru for milk. "Creamer?" was the reply. "Oh. Do you have low-fat, or maybe half-and-half?" Morag asked. And then the waiter dropped the bomb - "uhhh, we have Equal..." Have you ever tried whitening your coffee with sweetener?

After a lovely breakfast at the only Elmer's in California (yum!), we cruised off for the day to circumnavigate the Salton Sea. I had seen a magnificent short film The Accidental Sea about this lakeside resort community, almost completely abandoned when the lake turned toxic. Turns out most of the deserted hotels and houses have been bulldozed away (local real estate agents are trying to stimulate development), but it was still really creepy...

Morag followed me in the car while I took some photos - I suggested she stay inside with the doors locked. I could hear the odd barking dog and screaming baby because, bizarrely, people still live here - mostly old guys who travelled around on golf carts. It smells really bad, and definitely feels like a cut on your foot would give you blood poisoning, but I guess the rent is cheap. I think they would have to pay me to live there.

On the way out, I asked Morag to slow down so I could take this picture of a half-buried boat (in some-one's front yard). It's not broken, it's half-buried. we couldn't stop, because we were being followed - by the local sheriff - and didn't want to have to explain why this area was so 'interesting' (kind of like taking a photo of an ugly person and then being asked why).

This was the last sign we saw before heading down to the Sonny Bono Wildlife Refuge at the south end of the lake. There's a film coming out shortly - called Bombay Beach - set in this unique area (the boat in the desert at the start of the trailer is at Salvation Mountain). We heard that Billy Connelly (after his documentary about New Zealand) was making a TV series of Route 66, now there's a movie of Salton Sea, what is next? Who is following us? ha ha

Near the town of Niland on the south-east corner of the lake lies Slab City ('the last free place'), and the inspiring Salvation Mountain. We had previously pulled off the interstate and visited a Home Depot specifically to get some pretty (Martha Stewart) gold paint, to donate to the creator of this colourful folk art installation.

There are only a handful of times in my life that an artwork has moved me to tears. I explained about the last one at the MoMA in New York, and this time was just as powerful. One man - Leonard Knight - had spent over 30 years of his life building a testament to love. The text is from the Bible (mostly John 3:16). It is truly the most impressive unselfish tribute I have ever seen - right up there (in my book) with the Taj Mahal.

This is the support structure inside the right-hand 'hogan' museum (a Navajo domed dwelling) - you can walk right inside it. Many lovely metaphors come to mind when walking around this epic sculpture. It took about 18 years to make the 'God is Love' mountain, and another 12-14 years making this walk-in area. It has received numerous awards and honours, and in 2002, Congresswoman Barbara Boxer entered it into the Congressional Record as a national treasure.

This project is obviously remotely unlike Westminster Cathedral, or even Mission San Xavier, but the essence is the same, and (for me, anyway) has just as much impact. It is definitely a work of pious naiveté, but remains all the more pure for it - we don't all need to be artisans, just to give passionately of ourselves for as long as we can...

Amazingly, Leonard tried unsuccessfully for 14 years to build a hot air balloon (the fabric started to rot), then he took 4 years building his first mountain - until one day, it fell over into a mound of rubble. Leonard thanked the Lord for showing him that the mountain wasn't safe. Leonard didn't stop with his second mountain, either - covering a number of vehicles with his loving inscriptions. Not a single message of hate or threat among them. Leonard's message is simple: accept Jesus into your heart, repent, and be saved.

This is Leonard's reception. The rear of the truck has a small covered area where you can leave paint and donations, and purchase postcards. Leonard wasn't there that day (he's 79, and it's too hot for him to work during the summer - most people visit in the winter), but we dropped off his paint and left a donation.

Here Leonard turns a Toyota bonnet into a message of universal love. Could Andy Warhol do that?

Speaking of Andy, I think many artists make a pilgrimage to Salvation Mountain (and the Salton Sea in general) for inspiration. This Thank You Andy Warhol painting by L.A. street artist X was left on the public toilets as we departed the Bombay Beach resort.

Back to the big smoke - the city of angels.

It is Leonard's hope that his message of LOVE will be seen all over the world and that all people everywhere will show more love and compassion for their fellow man. He truly believes that love is the answer to a peaceful and harmonious existence.